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NEOSTRATA 2010
NEOSTRATA SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
Laser, IPL, RF and skin peels are individually not sufficient on their own to effect complete facial rejuvenation. They have to be used together with cosmetic creams to induce an anti-aging affect. Selection can be bewildering and tricky, especially with appearance of new creams on the market with unattainable claims. One is always tempted to try something new. A sunscreen is a given, but what anti-aging cream formulation does one select from the 250 on the market? Often a client buys what they see in glossy ladies-magazines or on the racks of the salon/chemist/store or recommended by a beauty-therapist. The most important thing for the client is that they do not develop an allergy to the cosmetic. This is a very common experience and there are some clients that are hyper-sensitive to cosmetic creams, and simply some products are out for them. Avoid experimenting and changing because you can become sensitized. Selection of cosmetic face cream and non-invasive rejuvenation treatment options (i.e. laser, IPL, RF or Peel) should be based on Advanced Skin Analysis: see Barrett-Hill (2004, 2009). Most clients require a sunscreen, moisturizer, and eye-cream, day and night cream. A wide selection of options is available on the market and in different countries.
SKIN ANALYSIS IS ESSENTIAL BEFORE COMMENCING TREATMENT OF PHOTOAGING SKIN WITH OPTIONS SUCH AS LASER, IPL, RF , PLATELET-RICH PLASMA ( REGENKIT®, MyCells®) OR PEEL
During skin evaluation, it is important to identify or exclude some of the following relevant conditions, before therapy and skin home-care is commenced:
- Skin sensitivity and propensity to allergies ( cosmetic history is important)
- Solar damage and damage done by cigarette smoking
- Detect skin damage due to drinking
- Establish post-menopausal status and effects on skin; detect mal-functioning thyroid with under-activity
- Identify those “ yuppies” that don’t eat properly, smoke a lot and are anorexic or bulimic: they may well have nutritional deficiencies made worst during the early and later menopause. Identify the compulsive water drinkers.
- Skin condition: acne, scarring, pitting
- Signs of essential fatty-acid deficiency, pigmentation, reduced skin-barrier, vascular disorder, disturbed trans-epidermal water-loss function, impaired acid-mantle( Barret-Hill 2004, 2009)
- Frederickson Skin-Type (Burn) classification or Glacou Score
- Previous skin cosmetic-history, especially hyper-sensitivity and allergies ( including drug and skin reactions in the past)
- Previous surgery including face-lift, blepharoplasty
- In other words, a detailed clinical consultation is needed with the client. Scanning and Dermatologia Mapping or Visia are in order to plan treatment.
- Status of skin tone, texture, colour, redness, secretion ( Barrett-Hill 2004, 2009)
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ABOUT THE NEOSTRATA COMPANY
- Founded in 1988 by dermatologists and dermatopharmcologists
- Demonstrated the unique benefits of AHA’S and PHA’s
- Privately held
- Specialists in the advancement of skin care: USA-based ( Biotech Corridor)
- Number-1 recommended professional AHA skin-care brand
- Recommended by physicians in more than 68-countries ( leaders in professional skin-care with polyhydroxy-acid (PHA) and bionic-acid ingredients
- Leaders in the formulation with alpha-hydroxyacids(AHA-quick penetration), poly hydroxyacids (PHA-gentle penetration) and bionic-acids: dermatologist developed ( non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic).
- Leaders in formulation with Lactobionic Acid (complex PHA, moisturiser, anti-oxidant, skin plumper, cell-renewal by careful exfoliation, inhibitor of MMP’S: potent anti-oxidant properties such as improvement of texture and laxity, eyelid-texture, skin-smoothening).
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NEOSTRATA IN THE CLINIC AND SALON: PROFESSIONAL SKIN CARE
The products are mostly sold exclusively through professional salons, clinics, run by medically qualified doctors/specialists. The application of these cosmeceuticals is backed by robust science and evidence. Popular with clients in the RSA and top of the range include:
- Neostrata bionic eye cream 4 PHA
- Neostrata Renewal Cream 12 PHA
- Neostrata Ultra Moisturising Face Cream 10 PHA
- Neostrata Bionic Face Cream 12 PHA
- Neostrata Bionic Face Serum 10 PHA
- Neostrata Daytime Protection Cream SPF 15, 10 PHA ( and rated one of the best cosmetic creams by Fairlady 2008): Excellent testimonial
- Neostrata Pigment Lightening Cream (Kojic acid) 10 AHA/PHA. Very good alternative to Cosmelan®/Dermelan® in the treatment of skin hyper-pigmentation.
- The products are compatible with IPL, LED-photofacial, RF, Peels, Botox and most fillers, including autologous platelet-rich plasma (PRP) facial resurfacing and rejuvenation ( Regenkit®, Mycells®).
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BOLANDCELL DERMATOLOGICAL REFERENCES: TOPICAL CREAMS, AHA’s, PHA’s.
- Barret-Hill F. Advanced Skin Analysis 2004, Auckland, New Zealand.
- Barret-Hill F. Skin chemistry 2009, Auckland, New Zealand.
- Lees, Mark: Skin Care. Beyond the basics. 3rd edition, Thompson, 2007
- Ditre et al. Effects of alpha hydroxyl acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol 1996: 34; 187-95
- Ruey J et al. A discussion of contol-release formulations of AHA’S. Cosmetic Dermatology 2001:15-18.
- Bernstein EF et al. The PHA gluconolactone protects against UV radiation in an in vitro model of cutaneous photoaging. Dermatol Surg 2004:30;189-195.
- Bernstein EF et al. PHA: Clinical uses for the next generation of hydroxyl Acids. Suppl to Skin & Aging 2001:5-11.
- Petratos MA et al. Drug therapies and adjunctive uses of AHA and PHA. Cosmetic dermatology.66: 2000, 107-111
- Briden E et al. Combining superficial glycolic acid (AHA) peels with microdermabrasion to maximize treatment results and patient satisfaction. Cutis 22007; 79 (suppl) 1: 13-16.
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Table 1: SKIN CARE BENEFITS OF NEOSTRATA® COSMECEUTICALS ( EVIDENCED-BASED) IN THE SALON.
| NEOSTRATA CREAM COMPOUND/TECHNOLOGY |
SKIN-CARE BENEFITS (Permission from Neostrata®) |
AHA’S ( ALPHA-HYDROXY ACIDS): 10%,20%,25%
- Cosmetic benefits to photoaged and hyperkeratotic skin.
- High Potency Cream 20 AHA
- Neostrata® bionic face cream 12 PHA. Contains Lactobionic Acid. Polyhydroxy Formulation.
- Neostrata® Bionic Face Serum 10 PHA. Contains Lactobionic Acid.
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- Normal keratinisation, reduces corneocyte cohesion of the Str.corneum. Modulates desmosomal attachments between corneocytes.
- Improved epidermal cell renewal
- Moisturizing
- Increased content of epidermal and dermal GAG
- Increased dermal thickness, GAG, Collagen and elastic fibres
- Adjunctive uses: acne, keratosis pilaris, melasma, rosacea
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PHA’S: GLUCONOLACTONE ( POLY-HYDROXY ACIDS)
- Can modulate and condition barrier function to prevent skin irritation.
- Provides anti-oxidant functions such as competitors
- Neostrata® Eye Cream 4 PHA
- Neostrata® Daytime Protection Cream 10 PHA
- Neostrata® Bionic Eye cream 4 PHA
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- Anti-oxidant
- Moisturizing
- Strengthens skin barrier
- Suitable for sensitive skins
- Provides resistance to irritants
- Valuable in the treatment of mild to moderate skin acne
- Improves appearance of photodamage
- Well tolerated in clients with sensitive skins, atopic and rosacea populations
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LACTOBIONIC ACID
- Forms a film on the skin providing unprecedented skin silkiness and softness.
- See examples above.
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- Skin plumps: skin protector
- Softens and smoothens the skin
- Improves skin-feel attributes
- Antioxidant
- Inhibits MMP’s
- Ultra-moisturizing
- Suitable for post-procedure care such as MDA and Laser.
- Improved texture and laxity
- Reduced periocular fine lines
- Improved eyelid texture
- Benefits: moisturization, anti-aging, reduced pigmentation in some cases, skin smoothness, luminosity and brightness
- Bionic Serum improvements: fine lines (35%), wrinkles (21%),pore size 37%), laxity (37%), roughness ( 68%), sallowness (68%), mottled pigmentation (53%).
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Ref: (1)Dermatological Surg; 1997,23:689-694.(2) J AM Acad Dermatol 1996:34;187-195.(3) Suppl to Skin & Ageing: September 2001 ( Bernstein EF et al). |
DISTRIBUTORS IN SOUTH AFRICA: Genop Healthcare, Halfway-House Gauteng.
DISCLAIMER: This site does not provide treatment strategies for patients presenting with solar ageing, wrinkling, skin discoloration or pigmentation. It is their right and duty to visit a plastic surgeon, aesthetic physician or dermatologist if they need information, consultation, counselling and treatment options. The contents have been reviewed by an International Biomed Expert for correctness.
POSTED: 23 November 2009
 
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